Thursday 25.9.14 – Cuenca, Ingapirka ruins, Tren Nariz del Diablo - Riobamba

We left Cuenca at 8.00am for some Inca ruins at Ingapirca. Had an OK nights sleep. Roberto tells us that at altitude 3 hours is a good amount of sleep.

David, one of our crew is a composer and plays the piano, he tinkled the ivories while we were waiting for all the luggage and people to get organised. Very nice it was too, “Still Call Australia Home” and a touch of “Waltzing Matilda” brought a tear to the eye.

David tinkling the Grand Piano Ivories.

Along the way we stopped at one of the many roadside eateries/shops etc, where Miguel the owner was preparing Cascaritas and Hominy. He had a whole pig which is purchased at the market for about $390 and then once he has sold all the bits for $500 he has made a $110 profit.

To prepare the pig, he had it sitting on some bricks etc and was using a blowtorch to scorch the skin, then a knife to scrape off the ash etc, he had done this three times, so began at 5.30am. We tasted the crispy skin with hominy (a type of corn) it was delicious, no bubbling of the skin as ours does. To make his $110 he sells the skin then cuts up the meat for various dishes that were bubbling away with potatoes in pots and pans at his storefront.

Miguel and his pig.

Suzie, cosying up to the pig.

We have seen Llamas with their long necks and Alpacas with their short necks and passed through some pretty harsh countryside and towns. There was dairy and pig farming, very small numbers of cattle though, the cows are mainly tethered. We have seen many people out working manually in their fields, with one couple using a single furrow plough pulled by two bullocks. Small plots for growing spuds, corn etc.

Arrived at Ingapirca ruins about 10.30. These are one of very few ruins in Ecuador, there is lots of the ruins missing. We did see and get to photograph a hummingbird here – Sparkling Violet Eater about 15cm long. The ruins were marauded by the Spanish etc with the stones used to build other things, so only some of what was still remains.

Alpacas.

The Ingapirka ruins.

Ingapirka Ruins.

Hummingbird.

Us at the ruins.

Liz and Suzie donning their
newly purchased Panamas.

From Ingapirca, we headed to Aluisi, which again through hills/mountains and farmland, we had 45 minutes free time to wander, saw a van full of family, with a live sheep tethered to the top! The sheep didn’t seem the least bit concerned. Lots of local women in traditional dress but impossible to take photos, as they don’t like it and it did seem to be an invasion of privacy. Aunty Sue and I saw one old lady squat on the road near the centre median strip, turned out she was peeing down a gully trap, just picked up her skirts and went back to whatever she was doing.

The main reason for being in Aluisi, was to ride the Tren Nariz del Diablo – the Devil’s Nose train. The trip was a very steep descent from 2300m down to about 1000m on the ‘most difficult’ railway line in the world.

Built in the early 1900’s, firstly by Ecuadorians who were too small for the job, so 5000 Jamaican slaves were brought in to finish the job. Around 3000 died of disease and accidents. They would have had to blast out considerable chunks of rock in very dangerous conditions.

We boarded on carriages and started the trip. To get down the mountain we needed to do two switchbacks to get around the steep grades. There were some fantastic views of valley and river. Then we stopped at the ‘views’ to see the Devil’s nose, which is supposedly seen in the shape of the mountain – not sure I really ‘got it.’

Then to Sibambe station for an hour – our ticket entitled us to coffee and some traditional Ecuadorian food as well as entry to a small museum. We were greeted at the station by men and women in traditional dress dancing.

The museum was quite interesting, Andreas the museum guide, explained the Devil’s nose properly, and there are some great legends as to how/why the mountain got it’s name.

We went back to watch the dancers again who were performing before the train was due to leave on it’s return journey, got roped in to dance by Roberto.

Then a half hour trip back up the mountain, quicker because the train needed to keep momentum to get back up. Then it was back on the bus for another 2-2.5hours to Riobamba – 2730m. Our Hosteria de Andaluza was outside of Riobamba and quite high at 3000m. Another long day and we arrived in the dark, yet again.

I didn't snooze often on the bus but...

Guinea pig selling by the roadside.

Typical Cemetery.

Catholic High School in Cuenca.

Some of the traditionally dressed women.

San Pedro overlooking Alausi.

A sheep riding on top of the family truck.

More local ladies passing the time.

Another one.

Two old fellas in deep
conversation outside the
Bombero's (fire station.)

Alausi street.

The Tren.

A view from the tren.

Us with the Driver/conductor guys.

The engine parked in front of
'The Devil's Nose' mountain.

The dancers.

Roberto and I dancing...sort of!

Riobamba (popn 250K) is the capital of Chimborazo province. There was heaps of traffic on the roads and lots of local buses. Many Ecuadorians prefer to travel at night. We are travelling mainly on the Pan American highway which is quite a good road, but given the mountainous country, a slow vehicle causes big hold ups. The traffic passes in the most amazing places, with blind corners etc. a bit hairy in a big bus. But our driver Javier is very good. We finally arrived at the Hosteria at 7.30pm, feeling a bit lightheaded at 3000m, so we dragged our bags in from the bus. Quite cold here (first time I have felt cool.) To our room, very weird hotel with lots and lots of eclectic stuff/clutter everywhere including cash registers, wooden religious statues and singer sewing machine tables to name a few. Our room was a bit smelly – we have a balcony but too dark to see anything.

Dinner was pretty damn good, Quinoa soup, Mixed beef (grill) – which came on its own hot rock and I cooked my small pieces of chicken, beef, sausage and prawns finished off with passionfruit thing for desert.

The days we are doing are huge, we left at 8am arrived at basically 8pm – buggered.

Our 'smelly' room.

Washing done and drying.